18th January - Lira

We had a difficult check out of the lodge as they charged me three times for our drinks.  In the end I got a cash refund for 2 rounds of drinks and all parties were satisfied.

Scenery where we viewed the Nyero rock paintings

We drove to see the Nyero rock paintings which date from the Stone Age - some 5000 years ago.  The area they are located in is a series of enormous rounded granite rocks which have caves in them.  It’s reminiscent of limestone karst scenery and rather spectacular.  We were taken around by a local guide, William, who insisted on holding Mum’s hand the whole way round and wanted to carry her round part of it too and got too overly familiar for Mum’s taste.

The rock painting found on the 100 schilling note

The 1st paintings were on a cave ceiling and showed a crocodile and a series of concentric circles that represented the sun.  They were painted in white which was made from plant latex and local soils.  After a scramble up through some rocks, we saw the 2nd paintings which showed more suns, some canoes, a zebra and a giraffe.  These paintings were red made from animal blood.  They’re were on the side of a rock and not in such good condition as had been weathered.  Finally, we had to walk about 400 metres to the 3rd and most spectacular painting which showed the sun and rays with the moon - this is on the 100 shilling bank note.  We had to crouch low under this rock and lie on the floor to appreciate this painting.  From here we had the most glorious view over the countryside looking at piles of huge rocks with beautiful trees including giant Euphorbia trees.  This was our last painting and after a rough scramble, we then had to walk along a dusty red road in the midday sun back to the car.  We were offered a performance by the local band which we declined as were really too hot to bother at this point.

It was very hot!!

We then had a long 4 drive to Lira through flat and rather uninteresting countryside.  Mum and I slept through quite a lot of it and were relieved to arrive at Lira which is quite a large town.  Our hotel is a bit of a dump and looks as if it has been recently flooded as they are replastering all the lower walls downstairs.  Luckily, our rooms are upstairs - they are adequate and have all we need but that’s about it.

We came down for a drink and a surprisingly good dinner which included “bubly crepes” and had to sign for everything even though we are full board - another row at check out tomorrow morning - yippee!!